Stitched  buttonhole



prilv9, 1929. E, B, ALLEN 1,708,290

STITCHED BUTTONHOLE Filed Dec. 24, 1927 'IIIII j? INVENTOR @4 n im M l e W M TTORNEY Patented Apr. 9, 1929.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EDWARD B. ALLEN, OF NEWTO'WN, CONNECTICUT, TG THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, F ELIaoBl-ET JERSEY.

NEW' ESEY, A CGRPORATION OF NEW STITCHED BUTTONLFOLE.

Application filed December 24, 1927. Serial No. 242,382.

rl'his invention relates to stitched buttonholes and has for an object to provide a buttonhole which has the appearance of a handmade buttonhole, yet may be made by a buttonhole sewing machine. Another object ot the invention is to provide a machine-made buttonhole, the slit of which is better covered with fewer stitches than heretofore.

To the attainment of the ends in view, a

seam having the saine thread-loop structure and concatenation as that shown in the patent to Allen et al., No. 1,372,473 ot March 22, 1921, has been selected and modified by passing each slit-stitch needle-loop through the Work in the same vertical ilane, normal to the slit, of the preceding depth-stitcn needleloop preferably carrying the ascending limb 0f the slit-stitch needle-loop forwardly in drawing it over the cut edge ot the slit, preparatory to-making a depth-stitch, so that such ascending limb will lie at an angle to the descending limb, giving to the needle-threadlengths in the slit a spread or saw-tooth rangement efectively covering the cut threads of the body-material, and particularly, of the interlining. The carrying forwardly of the ascending limb of the slit-stitch needle-loop at an angle to the descending` limb, causes it to be laid over the edge of slit "0 at a point even with the ensuing depth-stitch,

so that the needle-thread length on the race of the material Jfrom such edge to the depthstitch will tend to lie substantially normal to the buttonhole-slit. In the present buttonhole, the needle-thread lengths showing on the reverse face and, in fact, on both faces, of the material tend to lie'in parallel arrangement and normal to the buttenhole slit, J`

giving the buttonhole the appearance of a hand-made buttonhole. Furthermore, it is found that the purl of a buttonhole made in accordance with the present innnovement has the twisted or ropy appearance charactern-:tic of the purl of a hand-made buttonhole.

In t-hc accompanying drawings Fig. 1 i,- perspective view of the stitched buttonl overseam showing the thread-stiaichrc loop-concatenation. Fig. 2 is a right side or front face view of the buttonhole. Fig. 3 is a reverse face view, and Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4 4, Fig. 3.

According to the present improvement., the buttonhole comprises the body-material l,

which includes the main plies 2 and interlining 3 in which is cut the buttonhole-slit 4. The needle-thread 5 is formed alternately into depth-stitch loops G and slit-stitch loops i' which pass from one to the other 'face 'of the body-material. The limbs of each depthstitch loop 6 lie close together from the point S where the depth-stitch made, to the point 9 where the loop (3 'emerges from the material. lhe limbs otl the loop (3 extend from the point 9 to the slit 4 in a direction normal to the slit, each loop 6 being entered at the slit by the following loop 7, as shown in Fig. 1.

rlhe looper-thread 10 is formed into loops 11 which n'ongh the loops T an d aren in turn, entered by the loops 6; the arrow in Fig. 1 showing the direction in which the stitching arogresses.

As the slit-stitch loep 7 is passed through the Werlat a point even with the preceding depth-stitch, it follows that the reedle-thread length 12 ov the reverse face of the material betwee the point 8 and the edge point 13 lies normal to the buttonhole-slit. Also, the uescending limb 14 ot the slit-stitch needleloop 7 lies in the vertical plane of the depthstitch. loop and thread-length 12; the loop (5, thread-length 12 and limb 14 forming a recin a plane normal to the buttonholeslit.

r)Che ascendingv limb 15 oli the needle-loop 'l' docs not "e vertical-lv aloneside oit the limb 14 but extended i'finwardly at an angle to the limb 14 from the point 15 to the peint 13 which is even with the point of entry S depth-stitch needle-loop. iread le th 16 extending the depth-stitch loop is norhole-slit and )zufall-el to the the ensu face olf the n'ialierial lie substantially in parallelL instead oi 1n Zig D forn'ration, as here re.

Vlhe present huttonhole is he product oi the machine described in mv coyendinor a plication Serial No. 242,381, filed herewith.

Havingl thas set 'forth the nature et the invention, what I claim herein is l. In a stitched bnttonhole, a body fabric formed with a bnttonhole-slit, and an overseam covering the material adjacent said slitand comlnising a needle-thread termed into alternate depth-stitch and slit-stitchdoops passing from one to the other face et the materiali, means for keyingA such loops, one limb of each slit-stitch loop lying' in the Vertical plane passingl through the previous depth- Stitch loop normal to the bnttonhole-slitn and the other limb of such loop extending at an angle t'o the iii t-mentioneffl limb between the planes oi? the aces ot the n'iaterial.

2. In a stitched bnttonhole, a body-fabric formed with a buttonhole slit and an overseam coveringl the material adjacentsaid slit and comprising' a needle-tb read formed into alternate depth-stitch and slit-stitch loops pai-sint; from one to the other ilace of the mater-ial` means tor keying such loops, one limb ot each slit-stitch loop lying in the vertical plane passing' through the previous depthstitch loop normal to the buttonbole-slit, and the vother limb olI snch loop extending at an angle to the first-imntioned limb between the planes ot the faces ot the material, the needle-threai'l lengths on the one tace ot the material lyinp; substantially in parallelism.

3. In a stitched l'mttonhole, a body-falnic formed with a lmttonhole-slit`v and an oyerseam covering` the material adjacent said slit and comprisingv a needle-thread formed into t-liread lengths on both iaces of the material lying;l substantially normal to the battonhole- 4f. A stitched bnttonhole comprising); a body-'fabric Ylirmed with a bnttonhole-slit, and an overseam covering' the material alli acent said slit, said oyerseam inclutli a needle-thread formed alternately int-o depthstitchrand slit-stitch needle-loops, the depthstitch needle-loops paar-sinnr vertically tlnonggh the material at a distance trom the slit and extending' 'trom the` pointe of emergence to the slit in a direction normal to the latter, each ol ,said depth-stitchneedle-loops beingl entered and :keyed by the sueceedi slitstitch needle-loop, the descending limb et each slit-stitch needle-loop lying;` in the yertical plane ot the depth-stitch needle-loop which is normal. to the ljmttonhele-slit, and a looi'ier-thread torn'ied into loops entering; the slit-stitch needle-loops and beine' entered by the succeeding): depth-stitch needle-loops.

In testimony whereof, I have :signed `my name to this specification.

EDV/IARD B. ALLEN. 

